A pinch of this, a handful of that | Ghugra (Savoury hand pies with green pea filling), and a giveaway

I knew Rushina as a food columnist much before I began blogging.  Later, while I was still new to the world of blogs and ‘blog friendships’ I discovered her blog and felt an instant connection with her posts. I spoke to her on phone and nervously asked whether she could share tips on food writing as it was a relatively new thing in India.  It was the beginning of a friendship that has blossomed into sisterhood since.  Rushina is now the proud owner and culinary guide of  ‘APB Cook Studio‘.  

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 Vatana na ghugra, khatti-meethi chutney, pudhine ki chutney 

In January, Rushina formally brought out her first cookbook, ‘A pinch of this, a handful of that’.  I received an adorably autographed copy of the book after the launch.  I have read the book through, marked some of my favourite parts and re-visited most of them a few times already!  The doodled autograph probably gives you an idea about the kind of person Rushina is – thoughtful and observant.  The book exudes that warmth.

The cover

Of the several cookbooks I own this one occupies two very special places – my bedside table, and my heart.  The book is like Rushina – simple and straight forward.  ‘A pinch of this, a handful of that’ is a compilation of traditional and contemporary recipes.  It follows a memoir style of writing, with each section dedicated to the people who have influenced and helped Rushina evolve as a cook and person – her parents, nani, maharaj and so on.  The book is dotted with family anecdotes and Rushina’s own reflections on her relationships with certain key people in her life.  Many sections will take the reader back in time and down the memory lane.  The recipes will make you want to get into the kitchen, and start cooking.

The book has over 250 recipes, and it appealed to me that several are inherently vegan or can be easily improvised to be vegan. Rushina belongs to a Gujarati family where the kitchen was ruled by the ‘maharaj’.  Maharaj is the title given to professional male cooks and literally translates as ‘king’, and in this context the king of the kitchen.  Traditionally most maharajs were vegetarian and would not allow non-vegetarian cooking in kitchens manned by them.

I am a huge fan of cookbooks that are a pleasure to look at.  In this case the photographs are very few and they do not do justice to the Rushina’s cooking.  Nevertheless, it makes a very good read for all ages as the recipes are well written, easy to follow and the author has ensured that there are enough recipes for the novice, the experienced, the traditional and the modern cook .  It is the kind of book that you can go to bed with and ensure mouth watering visions.

Since Holi is just round the corner, it feels right to share the recipe for ‘ghugra’ from the book, as part of my review. In the North, holi is celebrated with ‘thandai’ and ‘gujiyas’.  The North Indian gujiya is a crisp hand-pie filled traditionally with dry fruits smothered in khoa, a form of thick, condensed milk.  This was the kind of Holi I grew up with and the kind of sweet I used to make.  The vegan version is a rarity but I shall share the recipe sometime when I feel indulgent.

In Gujarat, Rushina’s home state, Holi is celebrated with ‘ghugra’.  Ghugra is the savoury version of gujiyas and the filling is made with crushed green peas and coconut combined with mild Indian spices.

My tips:

  • Ghugra is very addictive.  Make them small.  Mine were about 1.5 inches in length.
  • I used my recipe for the crust, and made the filling from the book.
  • Substitute maida with whole wheat flour and bake instead of deep-frying for a healthier version.
  • I made 25-30 ghugras by scaling down the recipe for the filling, though I have reproduced the recipe from the book for a yield of 100 ghugras.
  • The filling is versatile and left overs can be used as a topping for open faced sandwiches.
  • I used about 3-4 tbsps. of sunflower oil for 500g flour.
  • I used about  3/4 cup of water to knead 500g of flour.  Allow the dough to relax for a few minutes if it offers resistance to kneading and then continue.  Too much water will make the ghugra chewy.
  • Fry on low flame throughout.  Test the correct temperature by frying a small portion of dough.  If it comes up immediately it means that the oil is very hot.  If it gently rises to the top, but gets riddled with bubbles as it fries there could be two reasons – either the water content is high or the temperature of the oil is high.  Frying at low temperature (rather optimum temperature) ensures even colour, cooking and crisp texture of the crust.
  • Saute the filling till moisture is minimum.  Excess moisture can render the crust chewy.  If the first batch turns chewy, allow the shaped ghugras to dry for 3-5 minutes before frying.
  • Fresh green peas can be substituted with tender tuvar (lilva tuvar) when in season.

 

Ghugra | Savoury Indian hand pies | ©tongueticklers.com

Recipe: Vatana Na Ghugra | Savoury hand pies with green pea filling
(Green Pea Fritters)
Reproduced with permission from ‘A pinch of this, a handful of that’ by Rushina Munshaw Ghildiyal
Time 2 hours | Makes: 100 pieces

Ingredients

Dough
3 kg refined flour (maida)
3 tsp salt
1 tbsp oil

Filling

1 kg green peas
200 gms coriander leaves
1 tbsp oil
1 tsp asafoetida powder (hing)
100 gms green chilli-ginger paste
1 tbsp lime juice, dried mango powder (amchur) or citric acid crystals
20 gms beaten rice (poha)
400 gms fresh coconut, grated
Salt to taste

To cook the fritters
Oil for deep-frying

Method

Dough

Sift the flour and salt into a bowl.  Add the oil and rub with your fingers, till it resembles breadcrumbs.  Add water, a little at a time and knead to make a firm dough. Set aside.

Filling

Shell the green peas and crush them lightly. Reserve.

Wash the coriander leaves in several changes of water. Drain well and chop fine. Reserve.

Put  oil in a kadhai or wok on medium heat. When hot, add the asafoetida powder.  Add the crushed green peas and cook for about 5 minutes.  Stir in the remaining filling ingredients and mix well.  Taste and add more salt, if required.

To assemble and cook the fritters

Pinch off walnut-sized balls of dough and roll them out into rotis in a lightly floured surface.

Spread 2tsp. of filling along one half of each roti, keeping the edges of the roti free.  Fold the other half over the filling and pinch the edges together to seal.

Put the oil for deep-frying in a kadhai or wok on medium heat. Fry the fritters in batches, till golden brown.  Drain on kitchen paper and serve hot with green chutney.

Vatana na ghugra | Green peas filled hand pies | ©tongueticklers.com

Ghugra | Green pea fritters or hand-pies | ©tongueticklers.com

4 sets of foodles are up for grabs from now till  the midnight of 30.04.2014, IST;

Rushina is an illustrator apart from a talented cook and teacher and uniquely combines her love for food and art with what she aptly describes as ‘foodles’.   ‘Foodles’ or (Food+Doodles) is a term she coined for the food illustrations she doodles on her Samsung Note. Each Foodle tells a little story in a visual manner.   For a complete description please check this link on her blog.

Here’s a preview to the foodles two lucky people, stand to win.  A set includes 4 illustrations.  This is how the giveaway operates;
To win a set of these all you have to do is;
Leave a comment to this post telling me what/who inspires you to cook and why.   You can be whacky, nostalgic,  or funny but you can post only one comment.  If there are two comments, the first one will be considered for the giveaway.
One set of foodles is available for readers within India.  These will be framed and delivered to you.
One set of foodles is available for readers outside of the Indian territory.   These will be prints and not framed.
On 31st March 2014, I will announce the winners in both the categories, and send out emails for details.
If you want to double your chances, leave a comment on my facebook page.  I will be giving away 2 sets of foodles to my fans on facebook apart from the 2 sets here!  Share, tweet and spread the message.
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Comments

Have your say

  1. My inspiration to cook? I guess it’s got be hunger. But jokes apart, it is the urge to provide nourishing food to my family that inspires me to cook. I loved the recipe Harini. As always, the photography and the presentation is stunning

  2. We have a very similar thing called “koraishutir kochuri”/peas kachori. They look delicious. I get the inspiration from my Maa and from my hubby. I learnt from my Maa to be patient while cooking. My hubby being a foodie and my greatest critic, he inspires me to try new things even if I fail once in a while.

  3. My inspiration for cooking is my son. He cannot chew well , but wants to eat all kinds of food. So I try to cook a variety of foods, so he enjoys. He is all enthusiastic to try them.

  4. My biggest inspiration to cook is for my mom and my little sister. They are the ones who give me an honest critique whenever I try something new. :-) Then I tend to make for Srini and my inlaws!

    Siri

  5. Those pies looks absolutely stunning, this kind of foods are always welcome among my kids, love the mini sized pies, that last picture makes me hungry with those tempting chutneys.

  6. My inspiration to cook…..hmmm my family and friends . I’m on cloud nine every time they give a thumbs up to my dish.

  7. Keeping the Ghugra small, using whoelwheat flour and baking instead of deep frying is what I am going to try out. Lovely pictures, Harini.
    My inspiration to cook is the ‘food’ itself…must say that food excites me more than ‘beep-beep’ ;-)

    • That’s what I too do usually, Sanjeeta, but in this case I wanted to remain true to the authentic version. In fact, I found that my kids actually like the baked version better! :)

  8. This blog actually looks very much colorful and I liked the recipe and this is the first blog where I have seen the usage of cartoon to depict cooking, who ever has done it, its very good!!
    To talk about the recipe, I have ordered all the ingredients required and I am planning to add a bit of jeera and turmeric to the filling.. Is it suggestible for the taste??

    • I wouldn’t use whole jeera when there is coconut in the recipe, but then we can all make our own interpretations. I don’t see why you should not try those additions. Do let me know how it turned out.

  9. Such a lovely post! I am from Gujarat and I took a trip down memory lane while reading and looking at your gorgeous pictures! Ghugra was essential part of festival celebration back home – mom use to make sweet and savory both!

  10. My inspiration to cook is my husband. He is a great foodie, loves trying out anything new and always encourages me and also constructively criticizes me. He loved the Ghugras and I also offered them to our American neighbors and they too loved it. They never thought that a vegan pie could be that tasty.

  11. A beautiful post Harini! For the giveaway, the person that has always inspired me to cook has been my Mamaiji (nani). She’s no longer with us but throughout my childhood years she was the one who taught me how to buy, clean and eat fish and she was also the one who made the most delicious Red Parsi Curry ever. In fact, as a kid I told her once innocently that Mamaiji if you die, please make sure you leave a big big pan of curry only for me so that I don’t miss having you around. Now that I cater Parsi food myself, the curry was one of the first recipes on the blog and continues to be a runaway hit on the menu too. I think it’s cz Mamaiji is looking over me and smiling every time I haggle with the fishmonger for those prawns we both love so much!

  12. Hi Harini ! Got to know about you through lite bite. I’m glad that I found such an interesting food blog. Now , no looking backs.I’m following you.

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